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Skid Row skid plates are made from 1/4" thick steel and reinforced with 1/4" angle to provide beefy protection for your engine's oil pan and your transmission. Installation is quick and easy and only requires drilling of two holes to attach the rear of the skid plate to whatever transfer case skid plate you are using. There is even an oil drain hole so that you can perform your regular maintenance without removing the skid plate. Take a look at the pictures above!

Carriage bolts are provided to attach the skid plate to the transfer case skid plate. Why not use counter sunk bolts? Simply because it is common to have problems removing counter sunk bolts after they've been run over rocks a few times. Metal always seems to get pushed into the recessed hex. Also, once a little rust gets into the threads, getting enough torque to break them loose without stripping out the hex can be VERY difficult to say the least! By using carriage bolts the bottom is smoother than with a hex head bolt and there is a nut on top that you can get a wrench or socket onto. Carriage bolts are much better in this application!

Which one fits?

• To determine which model skid plate you need simply take a measurement from the engine's oil drain plug to the leading edge of the transfer case skid plate. You'll get a measurement of approximately 16" or 20".

• Also, if you have an aftermarket exhaust header that goes under your engine or transmission, this skid plate may not fit properly. An example would be the Borla exhaust header for 1997 model TJ's.